Ireland's Islands. The Aran Isles, the Skelligs, Inishbofin, Tory Island. What, with Irish music all the way? Yup, it was quite the adventure.
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
Did someone mention Irish music? Here's a 4:30 video I put together featuring the versatile Daniel Payne and Matt Malloy of the Chieftains. Some I shot at the Cliffs of Moher, but most happens at Matt Malloy's pub in Westport on the west coast of the Emerald Isle. Payne was sailing as a musician with Adventure Canada and I was on the voyage thanks in part to Tourism Ireland.
The June issue of the Literary Review of Canada finds Yours Truly responding to an LRC article published last month under the headline What Does Franklin Really Mean? This August, sailing with Adventure Canada, I am hoping to return to the site that marks John Rae's discovery.
Adriana Craciun is right to question the wisdom of devoting a national historic site, location yet to be determined, “to a failed British expedition, whose architects sought to demonstrate the superiority of British science over Inuit knowledge.” We Canadians are looking for Arctic history in all the wrong places.
Instead of obsessing over two ships that disappeared in 1845, we should develop a national historic site commemorating the triumphant discovery of the final link in the Northwest Passage -- an achievement that relied on Inuit methods of travel, and that involved a Scot, an Ojibwe, and an Inuk.
I tell the story in my book Fatal Passage. In the spring of 1854, acting on behalf of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and after wintering above the Arctic Circle at Repulse Bay, Dr. John Rae led a small party across Boothia Peninsula, bent on completing the mapping of the northern coast of North America. By delineating that coastline between known points, the intrepid Rae hoped to establish or invalidate the existence of a navigable Northwest Passage.
Hauling sledges through gale force winds, blowing snow, and bitter cold, Rae and his two hardiest men -- the Ojibwe Thomas Mistegan and the Inuk William Ouligbuck, Jr. -- travelled Inuit-style, building snowhuts as they went, and eventually trekked north along the west coast of Boothia Peninsula. On May 6, 1854, the three arrived at a promontory that Rae named Point de la Guiche (latitude 68 degrees 57 minutes 52 seconds).
Standing there, looking out over a channel covered by “young ice,” Rae realized that this waterway, which connected two locations accessible by sailing ships, would be ice-free and open during the summer. He was staring out over the final link in the Northwest Passage.
Half a century later, when the Norwegian Roald Amundsen became the first explorer to navigate the Passage, he sailed through this channel and named it Rae Strait. In the epilogue to Fatal Passage, I describe how, in 1999, with two fellow adventurers (one an Inuk), I travelled to Point de la Guiche and there erected a plaque to mark the achievement of Rae, Mistegan, and Ouligbuck.
Forget about searching for two long-lost ships and commemorating what Craciun rightly calls “the tragic uselessness” of the Franklin disaster. Canadians should focus instead on building a national historic site to mark the discovery -- by the Scot, the Ojibwe, and the Inuk -- of the final link in the Northwest Passage.
Monday, June 4, 2012
The next issue of Canada's History magazine will feature a piece I've written about the Viking roots of Canada. To whet your appetite, I've created a four-minute video, A Discovery of Vikings. Here we find Dr. Ned Kelly, keeper of antiquities at Ireland's National Museum, talking about locating what promises to be the most spectacular Viking site in Europe.